Put simply, aluminum radiators dissipate
heat more efficiently
than traditional copper-brass radiators. Additionally, aluminum is
the way the performance radiator world went or at least until recently,
when plastic radiators with a variety of core types provided
massive savings in cost to manufacturers. Plastic radiators
should be, as you can imagine, a huge no-no for any car with a flexing
chassis. Morgan however, chose this route in 2008 . My strongest recommendation is to swap them out for something better on arrival. The newer Morgans, fit with a plastic radiator,
continue to report an ever growing rash of cooling issues (overheating) especially
when the bhp is over 200. Horsepower = heat and
yet they seem fit the same rad to 4/4s (100 bhp) that they fit to Roadster 3.7s
(280 bhp).
This
is an area where I have seen the creativity and expertise of Peter
Mulberry, the wind tunnel observations of Rob Wells and the hit-or-miss
experiences of the Factory combine. The area becomes vital as trad bhp
(bhp=heat) has been climbing and the world warms. Two salient factors
are observed making the classics unusual, different from other
vehicles, even those with the same engine. 
If you restrict you purchasing to the USA, this
is a better option than Griffin. It goes by the
name of Ron Davis Racing Products. RDR knows Morgan rads
a bit better than any in the USA and has done many since the dear Bill Fink began using them. The joints on the rad
are welded very well. I found the
cooling ability of my Ron Davis rad better than my Griffin (tests
back-to-back
on the same day, roads and ambient
temperatures). They can also flush mount
a high powered SPAL fan if you so choose and I very much recommend that for
the pre-2000 cars that can fit one. Many of cooling issues are
caused by woefully inadequate fans the MMC used to use. SPAL became the MMC favorite in the late 1990s.
But see the RDR Rad to the left and right. Note the thicknesses!
RDR service is very good. Expect to save 10-20% on a Griffin package after everything is factored in. They also weld the joints rather than epoxy them like Griffin. Like RDR and all current after market suppliers, RDR will not use a plug-in Otter switch but they can offer you a range of rad fan switches or make the threaded bung you wish. (Big engines see the BMWs above). Most US dealers use them..likely the typical knee-jerk reaction for a home-grown products.
Two important codicils.
1. Like most aftermarket rads, RDRs, especially those made for the bigger-engined Morgans, (Roadsters, and Plus 8s) are unwisely designed. I will explain further on. And Roadsters, aside from the very early ones already fit with aluminum rads at the Factory, come with inadequate cooling directly from Malvern..much as the Plus 8s did. If driven as they should be (why on earth buy a sports car and drive it as tamely as possible?!!!) they boil over with stock MMC cooling. You COULD HAVE obtained adequate cooling from the MMC (when Peter Mulberry was still around to supply ) but only if you asked for a "performance upgrade" and then the right Peter Mulberry product would have been fit for a price. (sigh)
REASON 2 RDR decided to address that by installing a thicker core. I had the first of these on a Morgan. They had had success with that with other big motor cars. But
trad Morgans have always had a problem with airflow through the
rad..and
most of the, prior to the plastic rads were canted at 30
degrees encouraging air to sadly go over the rads rather than through
them. The thickness of the core
determines the resistance the radiator puts up fighting airflow
through
it. The best race preparers in England have correctly noted to me
(they have the results from professional airflow chambers) that this
forces much of the air around and over the radiator..not helping in the
cooling process at all. There are methods to address this (which I will explain in another article when I find the time) but
the punchline is that RDR's super thick core for bigger engined
Morgans, combined with Morgan dynamics creates a very poor result
as well as making installation of both the rad and a better fan super
difficult. I doubt RDR or the Morgan dealers selling them are aware of this, but there you have it. You can also obtain RDRs through Morgan Spares (aka Morgans of New England) and this will eliminate any fitting risk.
Mulfab increases the cooling by making their rads thinner..allowing more airflow THROUGH the rad and adding more capacity by lengthening it at the bottom. My guess is that if their thinner rads are made to Morgan size, they will cool much better than the originals, can be canted upright and allow the fitament of a rear fan (VERY DESIRABLE) on TR Plus 4s. Merely copying older radiators in aluminum is, IMHO, treading water.
SUMMARYUsing my original Morgan
Plus 8 (copper) rad as a starting point, my big Morgan engine was 5C degrees cooler under
normal driving conditions and 9C cooler under stress conditions with the
Griffin. The time it takes to cool from 108C (fan on temperature) to 88C (thermostat closure) was approximately 7
minutes at 60 mph. However, the Ron Davis Racing rad was 2C cooler than the Griffin under
all conditions (tested on the same day, same car, same coolant on the same
road). BUT the Mulberry beat the RDR by an additional 3C degrees in all
conditions and cooled from 108 to 88 faster. To this one must add the effect of the better SPAL rad fan when NOT moving. However, the RDR did 2C better than the
originally
used on my first Morgan. (It is now on my former UK Plus 8.) All Morgan
rads are a better option in this regard than Griffin. They are made
with welded joints rather than epoxy ones (which
eventually crack). It is has the same height and width of the original
Morgan radiator by has a thicker core for more powerful Morgans (Plus
8s and Roadsters). Both Griffins and RDRs are generally more expensive
than the more competitive UK market. (I exclude the current plastic
radiators from the Morgan Motor Company which I cannot recommend,
for reason given) though there are elements that can be learned
from them.
| WATCHPOINT: The late Bill Fink told me that the cooling ability of an aluminum radiator can be increased by painting it black and this could be an excellent idea for those of us in hotter climates. It would also make the radiator virtually indistinguishable from a Morgan trad original from the pre-plastic rad days. I have kept mine unpainted and polished to a chrome finish. (vanity, vanity!) I have seen some people paint them..which makes them look like the old style MMC rads. |
. Their product looks very good and is reported as such. It is priced at £1,135.77.
I am unaware of the core size. However, it is merely a copy of the same
old technology. Those ideas were/are dated. We can do better.