MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PICKED THE RIGHT GREASING ARTICLE
FOR YOUR MODEL YEAR! YOUR CHOICES CAN BE FOUND HERE
UNDER "FRONT SUSPENSION GREASING".
WATCHPOINT 1 This configuration was only produced for a short period and not long ago. Over time, the community will become more familiar with them as experience grows. These pages will be updated as warranted. |
The
bushes fit in the stub axle tubes, one at the top and the other at the
bottom of the stub axle tube. As they do not fill the entire length of
the tube, a grease reservoir or "grease holding area" is formed between
the two bushes. As the stub axle slides up and down the kingpin, this reservoir
greases the kingpin (and therefore the bushes). The stub axle has a grease
nipple exactly adjacent to the middle of this reservoir to service and
fill this area periodically.
Sometime in late 2007, the Works adopted the idea of using
steering
races (aka roller bearings) in the front, a improvement long used
in the community by John Sheally, Peter Mulberry and the eMog forum gang
This was a significant improvement over the damper blade/plate assembly
and considerably eased the steering effort the cars require. DAMPER
BLADES WERE DISCONTINUED FROM THIS POINT ON. However, their system
was soon altered to create a direct feed to the roller bearing assembly
through the kingpins from a grease nipple installed at its top bolt. Though
similar to the earlier one-shot oiler, this passage is drilled wider and
ends at the new roller bearing. See (2008-2011
et seq) as all other steering race/roller bearing systems used
on Morgan do not
require this, there is speculation that the positioning of the grease exit
hole was left in the stub axle's annular
groove (fit in 2000). This would mean that the steering itself
would block its feed hole and explain the necessity of the later modification.
If so, those of us with these early steering race cars should see the grease
exit from under the steering race rather than from the steering race assembly
itself. Please confirm. If this
is the case, the front end can be dismantled and a passage cut on the shelf
the steering race sits on to feed them when greasing the front through
the stub axle nipple. Alternatively, you can buy the later kingpins and
top bolts.
These axles continue using the newer bronze bushes. These
are different from the pre-2002 ones that had a solid inner surface as
they have a large groove carved inside that allows grease flow. There is
a little lip remaining at the end. This lip is supposed to stop grease
exiting the assembly through the groove. Obviously, the lip requires
the bushes to be installed at only one sense..with the lip at the bottom
of the stub axle tube for the lower bush and the lip facing up for the
upper bush. Facing the bushes in the wrong direction will block the grease
that should fill it and allow the entry of grit rather than grease into
the groove.
Other than these codicils, the greasing method is simple. The Morgan Manual recommends 1000 miles and they are right.
Greasing
can be done with the car on the ground or on jack stands. A one hand "pistol"
greaser can be used. (When I am home, I use a powerful electric grease
gun equipped with a flex hose. The device effectively creates an extra
hand which makes the job easier.) The grease nipple angle can make it hard
to properly center the grease gun but the angle of the grease nipple can
be changed to suit can be changed. or a alternatively, buy an angled nose
for your grease gun. A slight angle will do.
1. Turn the steering wheel until you have the best angle at the nipple,
2. Pump until the grease flows out under the damper plate
(which sits on the stub axle shelf.). (That takes a lot of pumps!)
WATCHPOINT 3 If the grease flows out the bottom of the assembly, it is a sign that your car is due for a front end bush and kingpin renewal OR the bottom lips of the bushes have worn away. See the articles in this Manual on that. |
4. Turn the steering wheel and do the other side.
5. Clean away any excess with a rag and, if necessary,
brake cleaning spray. If any grease gets on your adjacent brake rotors,
the effect on braking and steering is dangerous.