You will probably find that the propane fuel line was routed into the passenger area behind the right seat and then under the upholstery and up through the scuttle.  Shut the valve to the line that feeds the propane carb, and then loosen the fuel line at the valve.  There will be an escape of pressurized propane for a few seconds.  Disconnect the fuel line from the valve.  Note in the picture at right that the line has been disconnected from the valve.

Remove the propane hardware from the engine compartment.  Note that there are coolant lines attached to one of the pieces.  Be prepared for the release of coolant.  Then remove the propane tank.  Remove  all eight bolts that secure the tank to the steel plates and the plates to the chassis rails and the tank just rotates forward and down.  It is rather heavy, so it helps to have a jack under it.  The fuel line can then be removed by pulling the upholstery away from the passenger side and disconnecting the clamps.  You will need to remove the right side seat.

That is the easiest way to route fuel lines. The originals went through the drive shaft tunnel. Solid fuel lines (originals were rubber) can be bent so that they can be routed from the tank all the way up and through new holes in the firewall.  Rubber grommets are an excellent. Short pieces of flexible tubing and clamps can be used to connect the solid lines to the fuel filter and pump.  This is safer than under the chassis where they can be smashed or ruptured...though racers keep them outside to make the car safer.  I briefly considered routing fuel lines through the drive shaft tunnel, until I realized that if the drive shaft broke there the remains would be thrashing around. Another expensive alternative, is to consider Aeroquip lines. These have all the advantages of solid lines but are far more flexible, safer and resistant.

Install new parts:

I won't go into installation of the carburettor and air filter, fuel pump and fuel lines.  Those should be fairly obvious.  Rather I’ll deal with the fuel tank and wooden bits.  Since the fuel tank will go in from the bottom, this is a good time to install the new wooden frame.   Glue and screw the horizontal members to the side members and slip these assemblies into place and secure with the top bolts.  Glue and screw the vertical members to the horizontal members and glue and screw the horizontal members together where they overlap.  Glue the long horizontal pieces to the undersides of the assembled frame and drive in all screws from the top.  Drill pilot holes as close to the ends as possible from the under side of the frame and drive in screws.  Install it from the bottom and bolt it to the sides of the wooden tub with its top bolts only allowing you to pivot it upwards a bit on these two bolts. Admire your work.  The picture at right shows the frame with the tank in place.

There is no good way I know of to mark the spots where you must drill the tank boards to bolt them to the chassis. To bolt the tank to the boards, you can measure with a cut out, then assemble the boards on the floor and drill.

Lift the tank up into the opening and slide the boards into place under the tank.  This is a two-person operation unless you strap the tank to a ceiling member and lift it over the level of the board placement.  As noted Morgan uses three boards, some with the corners cut to allow more more lateral movement. They then can use a determined sequence to get the boards in place easily. Remember that the securing plates for the tank is essential to the system. The boards are sandwiched between the tank flange and securing plates. The tank cannot simply be screwed into the boards. It will soon become adrift and will not have any ability to move with the flexing frame.

Make sure the boards are snug against the back of the chassis, the tank is snug against the back of the chassis and is centred on the boards.  There should be no bolts or protrusions between the back and the tank. Drill the holes where the boards will be bolted to the chassis.  Mark the locations of the holes where the tank will be bolted to the boards.  Remove the boards and the tank and drill the holes you have just marked through board and tank fixing flange and under the board metal piece. Should you wish, you can use an angle iron (alloy) to the front of the tank to further inhibit fro and aft movement.

Attach fittings to the tank for fuel feed (and return if used), and install the sender unit and rollover check valve if used.  Note from the picture above that both of these can be accessed from above with the frame in place.

Lift the tank back up and slip the boards in under it, making sure the boards go back in the same sequence as before so the holes line up with the chassis holes.  Secure the boards and tank with stainless hardware, inserting a bolt and flat washer from below and a flat washer, lock washer and nut from the top.  Slender arms and hands will be a big help here as there is not much room to work.  Hold a stabilizing strap up against the under side of the tank boards and mark a screw hole location.  Drill the pilot hole, making sure you don’t drill all the way through the boards and into the tank.  Secure the strap, drill the remaining holes and drive in the remaining screws.  Repeat for the other strap.  The picture at right shows the tank and boards in place and secured.  The fuel outlet fitting is in the tank.

The picture at left shows the fuel line connected to the filter and, in turn, to the fuel outlet fitting.  Short pieces of flexible hose and clamps make the connections and the fuel line and filter are secured to the tank boards with rubber insulated clamps.  The tank had been given several coats of shop primer and I decided to leave it that way for now.  I may eventually treat the tank and boards with waxoyl, but for now will avoid the mess.

I found a rollover check valve that would provide venting of the tank while filling.  I supplied the tank fabricator with a nut with the proper threads and he cut a hole in the top of the tank and welded the nut on the inside.  The valve attaches to the tank by threading into the nut.  There is a nylon washer on to seal the valve to the tank.  The valve is open from bottom to top.  There is a ball bearing that is held in by a circlip.  Air can escape past the ball and out through the hoses shown.  Should the car roll over the ball bearing forms a seal against the top of the valve.  The hoses are setup so that fuel may slosh up and into the first section of hose, and may even make it through the tee and up over the first loop.  There it will encounter a second tee and will drain back down into the tank.  The hose that goes up from the second tee loops up and back down and out into the back of the right side wheel well.

All that remains of the tank installation is to attach the fill hose to the neck on the tank and to the neck on the fuel cap.  You will have to work with this a bit to try to minimize the kink in the fill hose.  I have found that I can usually lock the gas pump filler nozzle on while filling the tank, but it must be positioned correctly or it will shut off too readily.  I have only once had a problem with fuel sloshing back up out of the filler hose, and I chalked that up to operator error.
 
 

Some Morgans have an aluminium plate that fits in the centre of the hole with a lip that fits over the top wood member and 4 small screw into the member and held at the centre by the three bolts holding the tripod spare wheel bracket. These bolts go through the bracket, the plate and the wooden members. Some of us change the plate to polished stainless, others extend the plate so they can screw it into the wooden piece at the bottom to prevent vibration and others use a plate large enough to cover the whole space top and bottom and side to side. It is your option.

Test and adjust as necessary:

Once everything is installed you will want to check the emissions levels.  You may find that the car runs clean enough that a ‘cat’ is not needed.  Emission inspection requirements in your area will be the determining factor.  In my case the carburettor could be adjusted to burn clean enough without a cat.  The other question will be the usable capacity of the fuel tank and what the new sender and fuel gauge show you.  I took one gallon of fuel in a can and ran the car out of fuel.  I poured the one gallon in and made it to the nearest station and filled the tank.  I found the total capacity of the tank to be 16 gallons.  I then ran it until the gauge just read empty and filled it again.  I found that the gauge reads empty when 12.3 gallons have been burned.  I operate on the assumption that I have 15 gallons and leave that one last gallon as emergency reserve.  When the gauge reads empty I have 2.7 gallons to get me to the next station.  On the highway that would yield a range of about 450 miles.  Your mileage, as the saying goes, may vary.

If using a Centroid unit, you can adjust the empty and full readings to suit.

If you get a smell of petrol check it out. If it comes from the vent get a small charcoal cannister from a friend and connected the end of the vent hose to it.  That'll cure the problem.