Properly shaped and fitted wing stays are vital. Without the wing stays, the wings would be cantilevered off the thin inner wings, held along most of its length merely by the tiny screws at the valence. Considering how many of these stays break since the new era at the Factory began, the forces on them are anything but negligible. You don't want your Morgan wings to flap. :) Poorly shaped or fitted wing stays can cause much damage, metal rubbing, cracking or worse.. There are two watchpoints. The first is to isolate the steel of the stay and the steel of its holding bolt from the alloy wing. The rubbing and the common grounding of the side light through the holding bolt to the wing is a recipe for an electrolytic reaction between the steel and the aluminum that will rot the wing.

Sadly, since Peter's passing (2003), every effort at the Factory has become based on cost in order to cut down production time and the need for expertise. In this area, the Factory production department began, in the early 2000s, to slot the stay's bolt holes to save time fitting them to each car as no two Morgans are exactly alike.  However, the slotting allows the stays to shift, and wing/stay damage became epidemic since then. With my first Morgan, I went years with no stay problems and then, when my car returned from the Factory in 2003, my new stays cracked five times in two years before I diagnosed the issue with the slots. The Factory sells the newer problem causing stays only. I switched them for unslotted stays, old ones I had from the 1980s before Steve Morris' shortcuts began and I haven't had an issue since...in 18 years.

With a strong arm, a big hammer, a drill and a table vice, these stays are not difficult to make and/or shape perfectly by any owner. And those with the newer slotted stays would be wise to switch to made-to-measure stays, like they had in the earlier Morgan eras and everyone would be prudent to make sure their stays are shaped like the diagram below. 1. The stay must be flat where the lower bolt is fitted. 2. The stay must rise up to the upper bolt and touch only the wing only at D after which it stay must immediately curve down (C).  (3). Place a 1/4" thick rubber washer between the stay and the wing (A). 4. Coat the bolt with silicone to prevent steel and alloy contact. (One can also use a plastic sleeve over the bolt.)

BRIGHTER WING LAMPS
by Lorne Goldman and André Koopmann

If you wish to keep your original look, but also have brighter lights for your torpedo side lamps.The mounting plate is galvanized steel, with a 21w amber capless bulb and 5w clear capless bulb. They can supply the 21w capless in clear if required! Look into this conversion kit from Stafford Vehicle Components of Malvern, England.

Plinths (say that 5 times quickly without tripping on your tongue!) is the name for the bases Morgan uses for the indicator and brake lights places on the rear wing and the two smaller version in front for the indicator lights. Sadly they are made of a cheap plastic that are either chromed or painted at the rear and left black in front. They are delicate 

However, better quality products are available. For example, for two decades, John Worrall at Heart of England Morgans offered these plinths (for both front and back) in high quality mirror polished stainless. He also offered spot/fog lamp bases for those of us who wish to have them fixed to the wing rather than hanging on bumpers or badge bars. Melvyn Rutter also offers chrome-plated bronze plinths for the rear for many years. But the chromed softer metal is much more delicate and less long wearing but they are very pretty as well. I have used them both.