This is an attractive Factory finish found on many Morgan
parts. Redoing this finish is time- consuming but not really that difficult
if you get the steps right.
This is an attractive Factory finish found on many Morgan
parts. Redoing this finish is time- consuming but not really that difficult
if you get the steps right.
1. Completely strip the paint off the piece you wish to refinish. You can use a good paint-stripper..if necessary more than once.
2. Wash any remaining stripper off with soap and water and finish off with a gentle rub of laquer thinner.
3. Tape the areas you do not wish painted.
4. Prime the piece with a zinc chromate primer and allow to dry for 36-48 hours.
5. Buy a quality wrinkle finish paint in the color you choose.
6. Spray three heavy coats (heavy but not enough to drip) exactly 3 minutes apart and each from a different angle.
7. After the paint spraying let the piece rest for 20 minutes, then place in an oven at 200F with the door slightly open (smelly stuff though) for 20 minutes more. (You can probably use the flame of a blowtorch but I never have tried that.)
8. If the stuff didn't wrinkle you did not put enough paint on.
9. Let it cure for for a couple of days..then put it back on the car!
| These days (2011) it is much easier. Many companies in the UK, US and Downunder sell crackle/wrinkle finish paint in any colour you could wish easily applicable from a spray can. |
PREVENTING FRONT WING/HEADLIGHT
HOUSING RUST
by Paul Abbott
As most Morgan owners are aware there is a nasty rust trap between the front wing and the headlamp housing. I have myself found that using a seam sealer inside the actual housing filled the gaps water would sit. Further more I drilled a 1/8th hole in the bottom of each housing thus enabling the drainage of water. You could obviously use a clear silicone sealant in much the same way. Remember to drill the hole after sealing. This hole will not be seen unless you stand up side down and stare straight up at it.
SOLDERING MORGAN GRILLE SLATS
by Lorne Goldman
Grille bars are soldered to the grille frame with silver
solder. It is a very delicate task but this solder will not effect the
finish if done carefully. Frankly a local jeweller could do a fine job.
WHAT GOES BETWEEN THE FRAME
AND CHASSIS
by Gerry Willburn
The factory calls it "Damp Course.", a moisture barrier. I have always bought it from them (plan ahead). It is a "mastic" type of compound about the width of the frame rail and is about 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick before the bolts are tightened down. It "squishes" down to about 1/8 inch.
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In the late 1990s, the Works began using a malleable mastic between all metal and wood, another Steve Morris era initiative and another cost saving for the Company. Factory staff discretely informed me that when the stuff stops seeping out, it is the sign to buy a new Morgan. ;) WEBMASTER WATHCPOINT: There are many more modern options one can use now. I favour a construction grade product rather than mastic. It is generically known as DPM (Or damp-proof membrane..a forever product) Here is a UK source. There are many types and even variants with two side stickness. Home Depot or any place dealing with construction supplies will have choice for you. |
A horn is a relatively simple device consisting of a coil, a set of adjustable (in some cases) spring loaded contacts and a diaphragm as a means of amplification of the sound the vibration creates.
With no voltage present the contacts are held closed by spring pressure. In this situation there should be a circuit through the horn. (can be measured on OHMS scale if using a meter)
When the voltage is applied the coil is energized pulling against the spring contacts and causes them to open and thus break the circuit. The coil now has no supply and the contacts are returned to the closed position by the spring pressure.......and the sequence starts over again. On some horns the frequency of the vibration can be modified by use of the adjuster screw. This screw usually has a locknut, when the screw is adjusted the frequency of the opening and closing of the points alters, this is achieved as the screw alters the spring tension and thus the gap between the points and closing the gap increases the frequency of the vibrational pulses, whereas opening the gap has the opposite effect.
Inoperative horns can be rendered so by corrosion on the contacts. Some old style horns can be stripped down and the contacts cleaned though in the past I have occasionally cheated. If the horn circuit is made live and the horn body given a sharp tap, the shock may dislodge the contacts enough to make a circuit and thus start the horn operating again.
There are two simple horn circuits, one where the horn is supplied with a switched live connection to operate it, or the other where an earth is connected to bring the horn into operation. Where the earth is created by the horn button in the steering wheel, it is often the case that if the cable insulation is damaged an occasional earth can be picked up when turning the wheel, thus sounding the horn intermittently.
Given the normal locations of horns, corrosion on the terminals and thus poor or intermittent operation is not unusual in an old car. At times it is a simple matter to restore operation.